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Twelve km south of Malda and right on the border with Bangladesh, Gaur was first the capital of the Buddhist Pala dynasty, then it became the seat of the Hindu Sena dynasty, and finally the capital of the Muslim nawabs. The ruins of the extensive fortifications and several large mosques are all that remain. Most impressive are the Bara Sona Mosque and the nearby brick Dakhil Darwajah built in 1425. Qadam Rasul Mosque enshrines a footprint of the Mohammed but it looks as if he was wearing thongs when he made it! Fath Khan's tomb is nearby and a sign informs you that he 'vomited blood and died on his spot'. There are still some colourful enameled tiles on the Gumti Gate and Lattan Mosque but few left on the Firoz Minar, which you can climb for a good view.


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The monuments are very spread out and not all easy to find. Determined cycle-rickshaw wallahs offer half day trips from Malda.

 

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